#SANDFLEX SUPER ERASER FULL#
The vertical grind marks are still visible so if you’re going for a full mirror polish, then you’re gonna need to drop to a lower grit to remove them. The sandpaper efficacy will drop pretty quickly, even with high quality sandpaper so don’t be surprised if you need to change to a new piece often. I generally try to go in the heel-to-toe direction, but I will occasionally go back-and-forth.not scrubbing in short strokes but back-and-forth from heel-to-tip-to-heel. And they’re tall enough that your fingers won’t cramp up on you. They’re firm enough to exert the pressure needed to abrade the steel. They’re flexible enough to conform to the geometry of the knife. Yes, just like the ones we used to use in elementary school They’re wide enough to cover the knife from spine to edge. What I find most comfortable is a large rubber eraser. The second thing you will need is some sort of firm backing. 2500 is an ultra fine hairline mirror finish. It really depends on how deep the grind marks are that you’re trying to remove. I rarely start below 600, and most of the time I’ll start at 1000.
Rhynowet redline is definitely the brand that I would recommend. I’ve tried all the standard brands that you can find at Home Depot and other local hardware stores. If you plan on doing this all by hand, then you definitely need to start with some good quality sandpaper. I’ve done this quite a bit in recent months. Again, they're not going to give you a mirrored finish, more of a hairline look. I just know that they're labeled as medium and fine. Really doesn't take mire than a couple of minutes. So yes, I basically just scrub until the scratches that I'm working on are gone, then move on to the finer grit. I like the sponges because they provide a bit of a buffer between edge and fingers. Yes, I basically just hold the knife in one hand and the sponge in another. I'd like to pretend that I've done this enough to be really specific, but that'd be a lie. I will probably be using high-grit (500 - 3000) sandpaper. Looking at my pictures, how long would you estimate with each grit (5 min.? 15 min.?).Īny specifics would be helpful here. Do you just hold the sponge in one hand and use scrubbing-style motions, or is it more methodical? Light, medium, or heavy pressure? How do you lay the knife down (e.g., on a damp towel)? I'd love to hear more specifically how this is done. I'm not working with anything as abrasion resistant as HAP40 though, so I'm not sure if they'd be as effective for you. Works fast and leaves a clean, though certainly not mirror, surface. I've been using sanding sponges to get rid of scratches. What I'm curious about is: What procedure would you guys/gals go through to pretty-up this blade? I appreciate hearing your thoughts! I've been seeing how acute I can get the edge of this knife, while still maintaining strength (you can see a chip, which I got cutting mostly-frozen butter for biscuits, oops!). I've attached a few photos of one of my knives: a Sukenari 240 guyto in HAP40 (click to expand). I have read the forums and searched though YouTube, but haven't really found the education I'm looking for, so I decided to post here.
#SANDFLEX SUPER ERASER HOW TO#
On the other hand, learning how to make my knives pretty again sounds like a fun thing to learn. On the one hand, I don't care about the aesthetics (It's all about performance in my book). HOWEVER, during all my practice, thinning, and figuring out what I want in an edge, I've put some ugly scratches and other marks on many of my knives. Hi gang - By practicing a lot over the last couple of months, I've become a pretty decent sharpener (meaning that I'm getting pretty good at finding the balance between screaming sharp and edge retention through a few prep sessions).
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